Saturday, 15 June 2013

Bambusa Ventricosa
Bambusa ventricosa
                         
Common Name: Buddha Belly

When grown in a container and stressed for water, this bamboo grows with short fattened cums  which give this bamboo its common name. When grown outdoors with plenty of water, this bamboo can become quite large. The American Bamboo society lists the hardiness to 15°F, but we don't recommend this bamboo as an outdoor plant for any area that has significant frost

Maximum Height: 55 feet
Container Height: 5 to 15 ft? 
Diameter: 2 inches 
Hardiness: 21° F
Plant Care

This type normally becomes a giant with zigzag culms and branches. When grown in containers under dry conditions it will become dwarf with swollen, decorative inter nodes. This bamboo grows very vigorously. Clump bamboos have underground stems that sprout vertical shoots much closer to their parent plants, usually growing slowly outward. Clumpers tend to be tropical or subtropical. Bamboo has many uses worldwide from building materials to paper.
 

Fertilizing
Light
Conditions : Partial ShadePartial Shade is defined as filtered light found beneath trees with high limbs. Partial shade usually offers some protection from direct afternoon sun.

Conditions : Dappled LightDappled Light refers to a dappled pattern of light created on the ground, as cast by light passing through high tree branches. This is the middle ground, not considered shady, but not sunny either. Dappled remains constant throughout the day.

Conditions : Part SunPart Sun refers to filtered light, with most sun being received during the afternoon hours. Shade usually occurs during the morning hours.

Conditions : Light ConditionsUnless a site is completely exposed, light conditions will change during the day and even during the year. The northern and eastern sides of a house receive the least amount of light, with the northern exposure being the shadiest. The western and southern sides of a house receive the most light and are considered the hottest exposures due to intense afternoon sun.

You will notice that sun and shade patterns change during the day. The western side of a house may even be shady due to shadows cast by large trees or a structure from an adjacent property. If you have just bought a new home or just beginning to garden in your older home, take time to map sun and shade throughout the day. You will get a more accurate feel for your site's true light conditions.

Conditions : Filtered LightFor many plants that prefer partially shady conditions, filtered light is ideal. Good planting sites are under a mid to large sized tree that lets some light through their branches or beneath taller plants that will provide some protection.

Conditions : Partial Sun, Partial ShadePart sun or part shade plants prefer light that is filtered. Sunlight, though not direct, is important to them. Often morning sun, because it is not as strong as afternoon sun, can be considered part sun or part shade. If you live in an area that does not get much intense sun, such as the Pacific Northwest, a full sun exposure may be fine. In other areas such as Florida, plant in a location where afternoon shade will be received.

Conditions : Full to Partial SunFull sunlight is needed for many plants to assume their full potential. Many of these plants will do fine with a little less sunlight, although they may not flower as heavily or their foliage as vibrant. Areas on the southern and western sides of buildings usually are the sunniest. The only exception is when houses or buildings are so close together, shadows are cast from neighboring properties. Full sun usually means 6 or more hours of direct unobstructed sunlight on a sunny day. Partial sun receives less than 6 hours of sun, but more than 3 hours. Plants able to take full sun in some climates may only be able to tolerate part sun in other climates. Know the culture of the plant before you buy and plant it!

Conditions : Types of PruningTypes of pruning include: pinching, thinning, shearing and rejuvenating.
Pinching is removing the stem tips of a young plant to promote branching. Doing this avoids the need for more severe pruning later on.
Thinning involves removing whole branches back to the trunk. This may be done to open up the interior of a plant to let more light in and to increase air circulation that can cut down on plant disease. The best way to begin thinning is to begin by removing dead or diseased wood.
Shearing is leveling the surface of a shrub using hand or electric shears. This is done to maintain the desired shape of a hedge or topiary.
Rejuvenating is removal of old branches or the overall reduction of the size of a shrub to restore its original form and size. It is recommended that you do not remove more than one third of a plant at a time. Remember to remove branches from the inside of the plant as well as the outside. When rejuvenating plants with canes, such as nandina, cut back canes at various heights so that plant will have a more natural look.

Conditions : Light and Plant SelectionFor best plant performance, it is desirable to match the correct plant with the available light conditions. Right plant, right place! Plants which do not receive sufficient light may become pale in color, have fewer leaves and a "leggy" stretched-out appearance. Also expect plants to grow slower and have fewer blooms when light is less than desirable. It is possible to provide supplemental lighting for indoor plants with lamps. Plants can also receive too much light. If a shade loving plant is exposed to direct sun, it may wilt and/or cause leaves to be sunburned or otherwise damaged.

Conditions : Full SunFull Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering
How-to :  Xeriscaping 

Xeriscaping is a method of planting which promotes naturally drought tolerant plants and water saving methods. Much consideration is given not only to the plants chosen for the design, but the design itself. Lawns are greatly decreased in size and usually located in the center of plantings at a lower grade as to catch any runoff. Shrubs requiring the most water, are conservatively used and thoughtfully placed, where they may be easily watered, preferably from runoff, and moisture conserved. There is a strong emphasis on using native plants, which a purist will do exclusively. At the very least, improved cultivars of natives are highly recommended.
Irrigation maybe used to supplement watering, but takes a creative turn in the form of drip systems and recycled catch water. Organic mulches in the form of compost, straws, and barks are also used to retain as much water as possible. In extremely dry areas, it is not uncommon for gravel and rocks to serve as the mulch.
A xeriphytic landscape is one that takes your particular site into consideration. A plant that maybe considered low water usage in one area of the country, may not be in another area, due to climatic stresses.

Conditions : MoistMoist is defined as soil that receives regular watering to a depth of 18 inch deep, does not dry out, but does not have a drainage problem either.

Conditions : Regular Moisture for Outdoor PlantsWater when normal rainfall does not provide the preferred 1 inch of moisture most plants prefer. Average water is needed during the growing season, but take care not to over water. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.

Conditions : Moist and Well DrainedMoist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

Conditions : Outdoor WateringPlants are almost completely made up of water so it is important to supply them with adequate water to maintain good plant health. Not enough water and roots will wither and the plant will wilt and die. Too much water applied too frequently deprives roots of oxygen leading to plant diseases such as root and stem rots. The type of plant, plant age, light level, soil type and container size all will impact when a plant needs to be watered. Follow these tips to ensure successful watering:
* The key to watering is water deeply and less frequently. When watering, water well, i.e. provide enough water to thoroughly saturate the root ball. With in-ground plants, this means thoroughly soaking the soil until water has penetrated to a depth of 6 to 7 inches (1' being better). With container grown plants, apply enough water to allow water to flow through the drainage holes.
* Try to water plants early in the day or later in the afternoon to conserve water and cut down on plant stress. Do water early enough so that water has had a chance to dry from plant leaves prior to night fall. This is paramount if you have had fungus problems.
* Don't wait to water until plants wilt. Although some plants will recover from this, all plants will die if they wilt too much (when they reach the permanent wilting point).
* Consider water conservation methods such as drip irrigation, mulching, and xeriscaping. Drip systems which slowly drip moisture directly on the root system can be purchased at your local home and garden center. Mulches can significantly cool the root zone and conserve moisture.
* Consider adding water-saving gels to the root zone which will hold a reserve of water for the plant. These can make a world of difference especially under stressful conditions. Be certain to follow label directions for their use.


Conditions : Normal Watering for Outdoor PlantsNormal watering means that soil should be kept evenly moist and watered regularly, as conditions require. Most plants like 1 inch of water a week during the growing season, but take care not to over water. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important for establishment. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.

Planting
How-to : Preparing Garden BedsUse a soil testing kit to determine the acidity or alkalinity of the soil before beginning any garden bed preparation. This will help you determine which plants are best suited for your site. Check soil drainage and correct drainage where standing water remains. Clear weeds and debris from planting areas and continue to remove weeds as soon as they come up.
A week to 10 days before planting, add 2 to 4 inches of aged manure or compost and work into the planting site to improve fertility and increase water retention and drainage. If soil composition is weak, a layer of topsoil should be considered as well. No matter if your soil is sand or clay, it can be improved by adding the same thing: organic matter. The more, the better; work deep into the soil. Prepare beds to an 18 inch deep for perennials. This will seem like a tremendous amount of work now, but will greatly pay off later. Besides, this is not something that is easily done later, once plants have been established.

How-to : Preparing ContainersContainers are excellent when used as an ornamental feature, a planting option when there is little or no soil to plant in, or for plants that require a soil type not found in the garden or when soil drainage in the garden is inferior. If growing more than one plant in a container, make sure that all have similar cultural requirements. Choose a container that is deep and large enough to allow root development and growth as well as proportional balance between the fully developed plant and the container. Plant large containers in the place you intend them to stay. All containers should have drainage holes. A mesh screen, broken clay pot pieces(crock) or a paper coffee filter placed over the hole will keep soil from washing out. The potting soil you select should be an appropriate mix for the plants you have chosen. Quality soils (or soil-less medias) absorb moisture readily and evenly when wet. If water runs off soil upon initial wetting, this is an indicator that your soil may not be as good as you think.
Prior to filling a container with soil, wet potting soil in the bag or place in a tub or wheelbarrow so that it is evenly moist. Fill container about halfway full or to a level that will allow plants, when planted, to be just below the rim of the pot. Rootballs should be level with soil line when project is complete. Water well.

Problems
Fungi : RustsMost rusts are host specific and overwinter on leaves, stems and spent flower debris. Rust often appears as small, bright orange, yellow, or brown pustules on the underside of leaves. If touched, it will leave a colored spot of spores on the finger. Caused by fungi and spread by splashing water or rain, rust is worse when weather is moist.
Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and provide maximum air circulation. Clean up all debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. Do not water from overhead and water only during the day so that plants will have enough time to dry before night. Apply a fungicide labeled for rust on your plant.

Fungi : Leaf SpotsLeaf spots are caused by fungi or bacteria. Brown or black spots and patches may be either ragged or circular, with a water soaked or yellow-edged appearance. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or even people can help its spread.
Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves when the plant is dry. Leaves that collect around the base of the plant should be raked up and disposed of. Avoid overhead irrigation if possible; water should be directed at soil level. For fungal leaf spots, use a recommended fungicide according to label directions.


Weeds : Preventing Weeds and Grass
Weeds rob your plants of water, nutrients and light. They can harbor pests and diseases. Before planting, remove weeds either by hand or by spraying an herbicide according to label directions. Another alternative is to lay plastic over the area for a couple of months to kill grass and weeds.
You may apply a pre-emergent herbicide prior to planting, but be sure that it is labeled for the plants you are wishing to grow. Existing beds may be spot sprayed with a nonselective herbicide, but be careful to shield those plants you do not want to kill. Non-selective means that it will kill everything it comes in contact with.
Mulch plants with a 3 inch layer of pinestraw, pulverized bark, or compost. Mulch conserves moisture, keeps weeds down, and makes it easier to pull when necessary.
Porous landscape or open weave fabric works too, allowing air and water to be exchanged.

Pest : Slugs and SnailsBegin looking for slugs and snails so that you may set traps.

Weeds : BambooBamboo is a great plant, as long as you're happy it is in your garden. But, if you find nothing appealing about this plant and it has taken hold in your garden, you may feel helpless when it comes to getting rid of it. Bamboos spread by underground stems called rhizomes. The following bamboos are known for sending out long rhizomes from which a new shoot, or plant, may arise: Phyllostachys, Pleioblastus, and Sasa. These canes will live for several years prior to turning brown. Clumping bamboos are usually not a problem.
Prevention and Control: There are several methods to rid yourself of bamboo. If time is on your side and you are patient, you may cut back all canes to the ground and repeat the cutting process, never allowing new canes to reach over 2 feet tall. Eventually, the roots will starve and you will be able to dig them out.
If you need faster results, a combination of chemical treatment and pruning will work best. Begin by cutting the bamboo canes almost back to the ground. Then make a vertical chop into the top of each cane with an ax. Paint the stumps with a recommended product. Make sure you wear protective clothing and rubber gloves to do this. Within a few weeks the bamboo should be dead and you can dig it out. You may have to repeat this process on really stubborn shoots.

Miscellaneous
Glossary : Container PlantA plant that is considered to be a good container plant is one that does not have a tap root, but rather a more confined, fibrous root system. Plants that usually thrive in containers are slow- growing or relatively small in size. Plants are more adaptable than people give them credit for. Even large growing plants can be used in containers when they are very young, transplanted to the ground when older. Many woody ornamentals make wonderful container plants as well as annuals, perennials, vegetables, herbs, and bulbs.

Conditions : Erosion ControlPlants that help to control erosion have fibrous root systems that help to keep soil intact. Leaves and the overall form of a plant can prevent erosion by breaking up water droplets before they hit the ground, lessening splashing and runoff.

Conditions : Fall ColorFall color is the result of trees or shrubs changing colors according to complex chemical formulas present in their leaves. Depending on how much iron, magnesium, phosphorus, or sodium is in the plant, and the acidity of the chemicals in the leaves, leaves might turn amber, gold, red, orange or just fade from green to brown. Scarlet oaks, red maples and sumac, for instance, have a slightly acidic sap, which causes the leaves to turn bright red. The leaves of some varieties of ash, growing in areas where limestone is present, will turn a regal purplish-blue.

Although many people believe that cooler temperatures are responsible for the color change, the weather has nothing to do with it at all. As the days grow shorter and the nights longer, a chemical clock inside the trees starts up, releasing a hormone which restricts the flow of sap to each leaf. As fall progresses, the sap flow slows and chlorophyll, the chemical that gives the leaves their green color in the spring and summer, disappears. The residual sap becomes more concentrated as it dries, creating the colors of fall.

Glossary : Hedgehedge is any tree, shrub, perennial, annual or herb that can be clipped and maintained in a formal or informal shape. Hedges can provide privacy and define property lines as well as rooms of a garden.

Glossary : Low MaintenanceLow maintenance does not mean no maintenance. It does mean that once a plant is established, very little needs to be done in the way of water, fertilizing, pruning, or treatment in order for the plant to remain healthy and attractive. A well-designed garden, which takes your lifestyle into consideration, can greatly reduce maintenance.

Glossary : Specimenspecimen can be a tree, shrub, ground cover, annual, or perennial that is unique in comparison to the surrounding plants. Uniqueness may be in color, form, texture, or size. By using only one specimen plant in a visual area, it can be showcased. Specimen plants are accents in the landscape, just as statues, water features, or arbors.

Glossary : EvergreenEvergreen refers to plants that hold onto their leaves or needles for more than one growing season, shedding them over time. Some plants such as live oaks are evergreen, but commonly shed the majority of their older leaves around the end of January.

Glossary : TolerantTolerant refers to a plant's ability to tolerate exposure to an external condition(s). It does not mean that the plant thrives or prefers this situation, but is able to adapt and continue its life cycle.


Saturday, 1 June 2013

Turn Your Dirt into Soil: Start an Organic Garden Today! 

Organic soil ready for plant

                                               
Spring means it’s time to get outside and get dirty — filthy, actually! Whether you live in the city, the burbs, or country style, gardening is a uniquely intimate way of experiencing your surroundings and the changing of the seasons. As any farmer will tell you, growing enough food to feed a family, never mind a town or a city, is a life’s work — but gardening doesn’t have to be. These four S’s are all you need:
Space: It doesn’t have to be much. Container gardening, exactly what it sounds like — growing plants in pots or other containers — enables city dwellers and other landless folks a wonderful opportunity to garden. In urban areas, community gardens are gaining in popularity, building local food sheds and a sense of fellowship. And for land lovers with space to grow, simply look for a mostly level area that gets around 5 hours of sunshine a day.
Soil: In organic farming and gardening, it’s all about the soil. The philosophy is that soil rich in organic matter will grow healthier, more disease resistant, and tastier veggies. If you’re planting in pots, you simply need a stack of bagged organic soil and compost. If you’ve got dirt, you need to transform it into soil:
  • Step one: Get it tested. Your local extension office will test your dirt for nutrients, pH, and potentially toxic materials, such as lead. The test results will also offer suggestions for how to remedy any potential problems. If the dirt has heavy metals, you may want to consider using containers, building raised beds, or experimenting with lasagna (no dig) gardening — building up soil by layering dirt, paper, compost, and other organic matter.
  • Step two: Build it up. If you already have a compost pile, spread your garden with as much as you have to spare 2-4 weeks before you want to plant. Make sure to turn the compost into your existing garden soil — aerating the soil and spreading the nutrients evenly through your garden. You can also apply nutrients to your plants throughout the season by applying compost tea (made by steeping compost in water and then straining the solids) directly to the leaves. The advantage to compost tea that you can apply above ground is that it works quickly, whereas building up the soil is a gradual process.

    No compost? Start a pile today. Not only will your garden thank you in bigger, healthier plants and fruit but your trash barrel will be much lighter at the end of every week. Using a commercial compost bin or simply a 3x3 foot pile, alternate layers of soil with organic matter (food scraps, leaves, sawdust) and manure. Turn and water your pile weekly. In an apartment,
    vermiculture 
    (composting with worms) is one way to get your share of black gold in a small space. Once you’ve married dirt and compost, you’ve got soil and are ready to plant.

    Remember, in organic gardening (and farming), synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers are not allowed. If you’ve got pest problems in your garden, you have a couple of choices. Some bugs can be removed by hand; pick them off each plant as you go. Entrepreneurial gardeners might consider offering the job to kids in the family who want to help out. A dime a specimen could go a long way! If you have mold, fungus, or particularly tenacious insects, you might need to intervene — in which case it’s best to consult experts for advice.
  • Seeds: If you’re a first-timer or want to stack the decks fully in your favor, consider buying organic seedlings from a plant sale or nursery. If you want to start the plants yourself, cold weather crops (spinach, radishes, lettuce) can go straight into your garden beds. For more sensitive plants that can’t handle the unpredictable temperatures of spring, start your seeds inside and transfer them to the garden when they are several inches tall.
    Stuff: You might be daunted by what kind of gear it takes to make a garden grow, but you needn’t be: a shovel or spade, garden fork, trowel, hose/watering can, and a sun hat are enough to get a solid start.
    So there you have it — a recipe for hard work and deep satisfaction. When you have your own organic garden, you can enjoy the absolutely wonderful feeling of eating the fruits of your labor and the satisfaction of knowing that they were grown with care. Most people would say this makes meals tastier. Growing your own food also gives you the opportunity to choose exactly what varieties of fruits and vegetables you eat and how they are prepared post-harvest: how big or small to harvest them, green tops on or off, flowers yes or no, etc. And if you happen upon a crop that you truly love, you can bring it back the following year by saving the seeds from the body of your fruits and vegetables — scrape them out, rinse them, and dry them on labeled paper towels. One thing is for sure: whether you have a year of endless bounty or one filled with challenges, planting your own organic garden is sure to make you appreciate the hard work of farmers everywhere