TheAloeVera miracle

 A natural medicine for cancer, cholesterol, diabetes, inflammation, and other health conditions...

The Aloe Vera miracle

• Halts the growth of cancer tumors.
• Lowers high cholesterol.
• Repairs "sludge blood" and reverses "sticky blood".
• Boosts the oxygenation of your blood.
• Eases inflammation and soothes arthritis pain.
• Protects the body from oxidation stress.
• Prevents kidney stones and protects the body from escalates in coffee and tea.
• Alkalizes the body, helping to balance overly acidic dietary habits.
• Cures ulcers, IBS, Croon's disease and other digestive disorders.
• Reduces high blood pressure natural, by treating the cause, not just the symptoms.
• Nourishes the body with minerals, vitamins, enzymes and glyconutrients.
• Accelerates healing from physical burns and radiation burns.
• Replaces dozens of first aid products, makes bandages and antibacterial sprays obsolete.
• Halts colon cancer, heals the intestines and lubricates the digestive tract.
• Ends constipation.
• Stabilizes blood sugar and reduces triglycerides in diabetics.
• Prevents and treats candida infections.
• Protects the kidneys from disease.
• Functions as nature's own "sports drink" for electrolyte balance, making common sports drinks obsolete.
• Boosts cardiovascular performance and physical endurance.
• Speeds recovery from injury or physical exertion.
• Hydrates the skin, accelerates skin repair.

                                                                                   

          

Bambusa ventricosa

Bambusa ventricosa Common Name: Buddha Belly

     Bambusa vulgaris or Common Bamboo is a giant tropical and subtropical clumping bamboo native to southern China and Madagascar. This species is cultivated extensively in many parts of the world.

Maximum Height: 55 feet
Container Height: 5 to 15 ft?
Diameter: 2 inches
Hardiness: 21° F
When grown in a container and stressed for water, this bamboo grows with short fattened culms, which give this bamboo its common name. When grown outdoors with plenty of water, this bamboo can become quite large. The American Bamboo society lists the hardiness to 15°F, but we don't recommend this bamboo as an outdoor plant for any area that has significant frost.

Branches: Several to many clustered branches with 1-3 larger dominant branches. Branches usually occur from mid-culm to top.

Leaves: Narrow leaves which are on average 15-25 cm long and 2-4 cm wide.

Habitat: Bambusa vulgaris often occurs spontaneously or naturalized on river banks, roadsides, wastelands and open ground, generally at low altitudes. In cultivation it grows very vigorous on moist soil and under humid conditions but tolerates a wide range of climatic conditions and soil types up to 1,200 m altitude. In dry season the bamboo plants may become completely defoliated but recuperate once rainy season starts. This bamboo species can survive low temperatures up to -3°C and has a high adaptation to semi-arid areas, and on degraded and flooded lands.

Uses: Bambusa vulgaris is widely planted and used for a variety of purposes, primarily for use in light construction such as houses, huts, boats (masts, rudders, outriggers, boating poles), fences, scaffolding, furniture, musical instruments and handicrafts.

Culms are also used as carrying poles or banana plant supports. Split stems are used for brooms, baskets, and rings prepared from the split culms are put into ear perforations by the Tunkul-Naga tribes of Manipur. In New Guinea culms are used to make traditional combs and penis gourds ('koteka') in the phallocrypt tradition

bambusa ventricosa is also called belly bamboo with very special trunk, green trunk and very good for landscaping trees in sub-tropical or tropical area

Flowers & Ornamentals

      The species is named Caracalla, a corruption of the Portuguese
caracul, meaning snail. This perennial vine
(when grown in a climate without frost) has fragrant flowers
said to be reminiscent of hyacinths – with a distinctive curled
shape, giving rise to the common names corkscrew vine, snail vine,
snail creeper, or snail bean.

 

 

 

SNAIL VINE (Vegan Caracalla), also known as corkscrew vine, is actually a type of bean native to South America

The pretty violet tinged cream and yellow flowers curl upon themselves, grow abundantly upon green vines and are deliciously fragrant. In its native tropics the vines can reach 25 feet. You can also try growing in pots given appropriate support. The seed is very hard to collect, hence the high price. 5 Seeds.

 

The pretty violet tinged cream and yellow flowers curl upon themselves, grow abundantly upon green vines and are deliciously fragrant. In its native tropics the vines can reach 25 feet. You can also try growing in pots given appropriate support. The seed is very hard to collect, hence the high price. 5 Seeds.

GROWING TIPS: Sow indoors 1" deep. Germination in 5-15 days. Transplant outdoors after last frost date. Prefers full sun. Provide support. If in the North, you can container grow or dig up roots to save for replanting out next spring. Grows more magnificent each successive year.

SEED SAVING TIPS: Not the easiest to save seed for because it doesn't always set seed pods. But when it does, let them dry on the vine before harvesting. Can also be propagated by cuttings

 

Easy and fast-growing, nutritious and versatile in cooking, beans come in many varieties. Snap Beans need only a short growing season, and are rich in vitamins A and C, plus calcium and iron. Harvest before beans form. Eat Shell Beans fresh when beans fill out pods, but are not full size. Dry and store beans once pods shrivel. Many varieties can be eaten fresh or dried for storage. Support long, twining vines of Pole Beans on string tied between stakes, on a trellis or fence. Self-supporting, 1- to 2-feet-tall Bush Beans produce fewer beans than Pole types, but can be grown in containers. Most like warm weather, so plant long after last spring frosts. Seedlings transplant poorly. Treating seeds with a legume inoculant increases harvest. Plant Snap Beans in warm soil at 2-week intervals, and harvest crops all summer. Keep moist. With all beans, watch for Mexican bean beetle and downy mildew. Do not water overhead or work with wet plants, to avoid spreading leaf diseases. Pollinated by bees, so spray any chemicals at dusk when bees are gone.

 

 

 

This twining perennial looks similar to pole bean. White or yellow flowers have purple wings and the keel coiled like a snail's shell. An oblong fruit grows to about 8 inches long.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

An Important Message About Bell Peppers

 Bell Peppers



A wonderful combination of tangy taste and crunchy texture, sweet bell peppers are the Christmas ornaments of the vegetable world with their beautifully shaped glossy exterior that comes in a wide array of vivid colors ranging from green, red, yellow, orange, purple, brown to black. Despite their varied palette, all are the same plant, known scientifically as Capsicum annulus. They are members of the nightshade family, which also includes potatoes, tomatoes and eggplant. Sweet peppers are plump, bell-shaped vegetables featuring either three or four lobes. Green and purple peppers have a slightly bitter flavor, while the red, orange and yellows are sweeter and almost fruity. Paprika can be prepared from red bell peppers (as well as from chili peppers). Bell peppers are not 'hot'. The primary substance that controls "hotness" in peppers is called capsaicin, and it's found in very small amounts in bell peppers. Although peppers are available throughout the year, they are most abundant and tasty during the summer and early fall months.

What's New and Beneficial about Bell Peppers

• Bell pepper is not only an excellent source of carotenoids, but also a source of over 30 different members of the carotenoid nutrient family. A recent study from Spain took a close look vitamin C, vitamin E, and six of these carotenoids (alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein, cryptoxanthin and zeaxanthin) in all commonly eaten foods and found that only two vegetables contained at least two-thirds of all the listed nutrients. One of these foods was tomato, and the other was sweet bell pepper! Bell pepper alone provided 12% of the total zeaxanthin found in the participants' diets. (Bell pepper also provided 7% of the participants' total vitamin C intake.)
• If you want to maximize the availability of vitamin C and carotenoids from bell pepper, allow this amazing vegetable to ripen. Recent studies have shown that the vitamin C content and the carotenoid content of bell pepper both increase with ripening. When the vitamin C and carotenoid content of bell peppers increases, so does their total antioxidant capacity, which can be a source of great health benefits. Growers can allow bell peppers to ripen on the plant prior to harvest (which means that you will be able to purchase them in the grocery store in a ripened state). Or, if harvested early in the ripening stage, bell peppers can still be allowed to ripen post-harvest and after you've purchased them and brought them home from the market. In one recent study, the vitamin C in not-fully-ripe bell peppers continued to increase during home storage over a period of about 10 days. It can, though, be difficult to tell whether a bell pepper is optimally ripe. Most--but not all--green bell peppers will turn red in color over time, but they may be optimally ripe before shifting over from green to red. A good rule of thumb is to judge less by their basic color and more by their color quality as well as overall texture and feel. Whether green, red, yellow, or orange, optimally ripe bell peppers will have deep, vivid colors, feel heavy for their size, and be firm enough to yield only slightly to pressure.
• Higher heat cooking can damage some of the delicate phytonutrients in bell peppers. In one recent study from Turkey, the effects of grilling on sweet green bell peppers were studied with respect to one particular phytonutrient--the flavonoid called lute Olin. Prior to grilling, the bell peppers were found to contain about 46 milligrams/kilogram of this important antioxidant and anti-inflammatory flavonoid. After grilling for 7-8 minutes at a temperature of 150°C (302°F), about 40% of the lute Olin was found to be destroyed. This loss of lute Olin from higher heat cooking is one of the reasons we like cooking methods for bell peppers that use lower heat for a very short period of time.
• Although we tend to think about cruciferous vegetables like broccoli or allium vegetables like onions and garlic as vegetables that are richest in sulfur-containing compounds, bell peppers can also be valuable sources of health-supportive sulfur compounds. Several recent studies have taken a close look at the presence of enzymes in bell peppers called cysteine S-conjugate beta-lysates and their role in a sulfur-containing metabolic pathway called the thiomethyl shunt. These enzymes and this pathway may be involved in some of the anti-cancer benefits that bell pepper has shown in some animal and lab studies. They may serve as the basis for some of the anti-cancer benefits shown by green, yellow, red and orange vegetable intake in recent studies, including a recent study on risk reduction for gastric cancer and esophageal cancer. 

Bambusa Ventricosa

Bambusa ventricosa
                         
Common Name: Buddha Belly

When grown in a container and stressed for water, this bamboo grows with short fattened cums  which give this bamboo its common name. When grown outdoors with plenty of water, this bamboo can become quite large. The American Bamboo society lists the hardiness to 15°F, but we don't recommend this bamboo as an outdoor plant for any area that has significant frost

Maximum Height: 55 feet
Container Height: 5 to 15 ft? 
Diameter: 2 inches 
Hardiness: 21° F

Plant Care

This type normally becomes a giant with zigzag culms and branches. When grown in containers under dry conditions it will become dwarf with swollen, decorative inter nodes. This bamboo grows very vigorously. Clump bamboos have underground stems that sprout vertical shoots much closer to their parent plants, usually growing slowly outward. Clumpers tend to be tropical or subtropical. Bamboo has many uses worldwide from building materials to paper.

 

Fertilizing

Light

Conditions : Partial ShadePartial Shade is defined as filtered light found beneath trees with high limbs. Partial shade usually offers some protection from direct afternoon sun.

Conditions : Dappled LightDappled Light refers to a dappled pattern of light created on the ground, as cast by light passing through high tree branches. This is the middle ground, not considered shady, but not sunny either. Dappled remains constant throughout the day.

Conditions : Part SunPart Sun refers to filtered light, with most sun being received during the afternoon hours. Shade usually occurs during the morning hours.

Conditions : Light ConditionsUnless a site is completely exposed, light conditions will change during the day and even during the year. The northern and eastern sides of a house receive the least amount of light, with the northern exposure being the shadiest. The western and southern sides of a house receive the most light and are considered the hottest exposures due to intense afternoon sun.
You will notice that sun and shade patterns change during the day. The western side of a house may even be shady due to shadows cast by large trees or a structure from an adjacent property. If you have just bought a new home or just beginning to garden in your older home, take time to map sun and shade throughout the day. You will get a more accurate feel for your site's true light conditions.

Conditions : Filtered LightFor many plants that prefer partially shady conditions, filtered light is ideal. Good planting sites are under a mid to large sized tree that lets some light through their branches or beneath taller plants that will provide some protection.

Conditions : Partial Sun, Partial ShadePart sun or part shade plants prefer light that is filtered. Sunlight, though not direct, is important to them. Often morning sun, because it is not as strong as afternoon sun, can be considered part sun or part shade. If you live in an area that does not get much intense sun, such as the Pacific Northwest, a full sun exposure may be fine. In other areas such as Florida, plant in a location where afternoon shade will be received.

Conditions : Full to Partial SunFull sunlight is needed for many plants to assume their full potential. Many of these plants will do fine with a little less sunlight, although they may not flower as heavily or their foliage as vibrant. Areas on the southern and western sides of buildings usually are the sunniest. The only exception is when houses or buildings are so close together, shadows are cast from neighboring properties. Full sun usually means 6 or more hours of direct unobstructed sunlight on a sunny day. Partial sun receives less than 6 hours of sun, but more than 3 hours. Plants able to take full sun in some climates may only be able to tolerate part sun in other climates. Know the culture of the plant before you buy and plant it!

Conditions : Types of PruningTypes of pruning include: pinching, thinning, shearing and rejuvenating.
Pinching is removing the stem tips of a young plant to promote branching. Doing this avoids the need for more severe pruning later on.
Thinning involves removing whole branches back to the trunk. This may be done to open up the interior of a plant to let more light in and to increase air circulation that can cut down on plant disease. The best way to begin thinning is to begin by removing dead or diseased wood.
Shearing is leveling the surface of a shrub using hand or electric shears. This is done to maintain the desired shape of a hedge or topiary.
Rejuvenating is removal of old branches or the overall reduction of the size of a shrub to restore its original form and size. It is recommended that you do not remove more than one third of a plant at a time. Remember to remove branches from the inside of the plant as well as the outside. When rejuvenating plants with canes, such as nandina, cut back canes at various heights so that plant will have a more natural look.

Conditions : Light and Plant SelectionFor best plant performance, it is desirable to match the correct plant with the available light conditions. Right plant, right place! Plants which do not receive sufficient light may become pale in color, have fewer leaves and a "leggy" stretched-out appearance. Also expect plants to grow slower and have fewer blooms when light is less than desirable. It is possible to provide supplemental lighting for indoor plants with lamps. Plants can also receive too much light. If a shade loving plant is exposed to direct sun, it may wilt and/or cause leaves to be sunburned or otherwise damaged.

Conditions : Full SunFull Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.

Watering

How-to :  Xeriscaping 

Xeriscaping is a method of planting which promotes naturally drought tolerant plants and water saving methods. Much consideration is given not only to the plants chosen for the design, but the design itself. Lawns are greatly decreased in size and usually located in the center of plantings at a lower grade as to catch any runoff. Shrubs requiring the most water, are conservatively used and thoughtfully placed, where they may be easily watered, preferably from runoff, and moisture conserved. There is a strong emphasis on using native plants, which a purist will do exclusively. At the very least, improved cultivars of natives are highly recommended.
Irrigation maybe used to supplement watering, but takes a creative turn in the form of drip systems and recycled catch water. Organic mulches in the form of compost, straws, and barks are also used to retain as much water as possible. In extremely dry areas, it is not uncommon for gravel and rocks to serve as the mulch.
A xeriphytic landscape is one that takes your particular site into consideration. A plant that maybe considered low water usage in one area of the country, may not be in another area, due to climatic stresses.

Conditions : MoistMoist is defined as soil that receives regular watering to a depth of 18 inch deep, does not dry out, but does not have a drainage problem either.

Conditions : Regular Moisture for Outdoor PlantsWater when normal rainfall does not provide the preferred 1 inch of moisture most plants prefer. Average water is needed during the growing season, but take care not to over water. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.

Conditions : Moist and Well DrainedMoist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

Conditions : Outdoor WateringPlants are almost completely made up of water so it is important to supply them with adequate water to maintain good plant health. Not enough water and roots will wither and the plant will wilt and die. Too much water applied too frequently deprives roots of oxygen leading to plant diseases such as root and stem rots. The type of plant, plant age, light level, soil type and container size all will impact when a plant needs to be watered. Follow these tips to ensure successful watering:
* The key to watering is water deeply and less frequently. When watering, water well, i.e. provide enough water to thoroughly saturate the root ball. With in-ground plants, this means thoroughly soaking the soil until water has penetrated to a depth of 6 to 7 inches (1' being better). With container grown plants, apply enough water to allow water to flow through the drainage holes.
* Try to water plants early in the day or later in the afternoon to conserve water and cut down on plant stress. Do water early enough so that water has had a chance to dry from plant leaves prior to night fall. This is paramount if you have had fungus problems.
* Don't wait to water until plants wilt. Although some plants will recover from this, all plants will die if they wilt too much (when they reach the permanent wilting point).
* Consider water conservation methods such as drip irrigation, mulching, and xeriscaping. Drip systems which slowly drip moisture directly on the root system can be purchased at your local home and garden center. Mulches can significantly cool the root zone and conserve moisture.
* Consider adding water-saving gels to the root zone which will hold a reserve of water for the plant. These can make a world of difference especially under stressful conditions. Be certain to follow label directions for their use.


Conditions : Normal Watering for Outdoor PlantsNormal watering means that soil should be kept evenly moist and watered regularly, as conditions require. Most plants like 1 inch of water a week during the growing season, but take care not to over water. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important for establishment. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.

Planting

How-to : Preparing Garden BedsUse a soil testing kit to determine the acidity or alkalinity of the soil before beginning any garden bed preparation. This will help you determine which plants are best suited for your site. Check soil drainage and correct drainage where standing water remains. Clear weeds and debris from planting areas and continue to remove weeds as soon as they come up.
A week to 10 days before planting, add 2 to 4 inches of aged manure or compost and work into the planting site to improve fertility and increase water retention and drainage. If soil composition is weak, a layer of topsoil should be considered as well. No matter if your soil is sand or clay, it can be improved by adding the same thing: organic matter. The more, the better; work deep into the soil. Prepare beds to an 18 inch deep for perennials. This will seem like a tremendous amount of work now, but will greatly pay off later. Besides, this is not something that is easily done later, once plants have been established.

How-to : Preparing ContainersContainers are excellent when used as an ornamental feature, a planting option when there is little or no soil to plant in, or for plants that require a soil type not found in the garden or when soil drainage in the garden is inferior. If growing more than one plant in a container, make sure that all have similar cultural requirements. Choose a container that is deep and large enough to allow root development and growth as well as proportional balance between the fully developed plant and the container. Plant large containers in the place you intend them to stay. All containers should have drainage holes. A mesh screen, broken clay pot pieces(crock) or a paper coffee filter placed over the hole will keep soil from washing out. The potting soil you select should be an appropriate mix for the plants you have chosen. Quality soils (or soil-less medias) absorb moisture readily and evenly when wet. If water runs off soil upon initial wetting, this is an indicator that your soil may not be as good as you think.
Prior to filling a container with soil, wet potting soil in the bag or place in a tub or wheelbarrow so that it is evenly moist. Fill container about halfway full or to a level that will allow plants, when planted, to be just below the rim of the pot. Rootballs should be level with soil line when project is complete. Water well.

Problems

Fungi : RustsMost rusts are host specific and overwinter on leaves, stems and spent flower debris. Rust often appears as small, bright orange, yellow, or brown pustules on the underside of leaves. If touched, it will leave a colored spot of spores on the finger. Caused by fungi and spread by splashing water or rain, rust is worse when weather is moist.
Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and provide maximum air circulation. Clean up all debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. Do not water from overhead and water only during the day so that plants will have enough time to dry before night. Apply a fungicide labeled for rust on your plant.

Fungi : Leaf SpotsLeaf spots are caused by fungi or bacteria. Brown or black spots and patches may be either ragged or circular, with a water soaked or yellow-edged appearance. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or even people can help its spread.
Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves when the plant is dry. Leaves that collect around the base of the plant should be raked up and disposed of. Avoid overhead irrigation if possible; water should be directed at soil level. For fungal leaf spots, use a recommended fungicide according to label directions.


Weeds : Preventing Weeds and Grass
Weeds rob your plants of water, nutrients and light. They can harbor pests and diseases. Before planting, remove weeds either by hand or by spraying an herbicide according to label directions. Another alternative is to lay plastic over the area for a couple of months to kill grass and weeds.
You may apply a pre-emergent herbicide prior to planting, but be sure that it is labeled for the plants you are wishing to grow. Existing beds may be spot sprayed with a nonselective herbicide, but be careful to shield those plants you do not want to kill. Non-selective means that it will kill everything it comes in contact with.
Mulch plants with a 3 inch layer of pinestraw, pulverized bark, or compost. Mulch conserves moisture, keeps weeds down, and makes it easier to pull when necessary.
Porous landscape or open weave fabric works too, allowing air and water to be exchanged.

Pest : Slugs and SnailsBegin looking for slugs and snails so that you may set traps.

Weeds : BambooBamboo is a great plant, as long as you're happy it is in your garden. But, if you find nothing appealing about this plant and it has taken hold in your garden, you may feel helpless when it comes to getting rid of it. Bamboos spread by underground stems called rhizomes. The following bamboos are known for sending out long rhizomes from which a new shoot, or plant, may arise: Phyllostachys, Pleioblastus, and Sasa. These canes will live for several years prior to turning brown. Clumping bamboos are usually not a problem.
Prevention and Control: There are several methods to rid yourself of bamboo. If time is on your side and you are patient, you may cut back all canes to the ground and repeat the cutting process, never allowing new canes to reach over 2 feet tall. Eventually, the roots will starve and you will be able to dig them out.
If you need faster results, a combination of chemical treatment and pruning will work best. Begin by cutting the bamboo canes almost back to the ground. Then make a vertical chop into the top of each cane with an ax. Paint the stumps with a recommended product. Make sure you wear protective clothing and rubber gloves to do this. Within a few weeks the bamboo should be dead and you can dig it out. You may have to repeat this process on really stubborn shoots.

Miscellaneous

Glossary : Container PlantA plant that is considered to be a good container plant is one that does not have a tap root, but rather a more confined, fibrous root system. Plants that usually thrive in containers are slow- growing or relatively small in size. Plants are more adaptable than people give them credit for. Even large growing plants can be used in containers when they are very young, transplanted to the ground when older. Many woody ornamentals make wonderful container plants as well as annuals, perennials, vegetables, herbs, and bulbs.

Conditions : Erosion ControlPlants that help to control erosion have fibrous root systems that help to keep soil intact. Leaves and the overall form of a plant can prevent erosion by breaking up water droplets before they hit the ground, lessening splashing and runoff.

Conditions : Fall ColorFall color is the result of trees or shrubs changing colors according to complex chemical formulas present in their leaves. Depending on how much iron, magnesium, phosphorus, or sodium is in the plant, and the acidity of the chemicals in the leaves, leaves might turn amber, gold, red, orange or just fade from green to brown. Scarlet oaks, red maples and sumac, for instance, have a slightly acidic sap, which causes the leaves to turn bright red. The leaves of some varieties of ash, growing in areas where limestone is present, will turn a regal purplish-blue.
Although many people believe that cooler temperatures are responsible for the color change, the weather has nothing to do with it at all. As the days grow shorter and the nights longer, a chemical clock inside the trees starts up, releasing a hormone which restricts the flow of sap to each leaf. As fall progresses, the sap flow slows and chlorophyll, the chemical that gives the leaves their green color in the spring and summer, disappears. The residual sap becomes more concentrated as it dries, creating the colors of fall.

Glossary : HedgeA hedge is any tree, shrub, perennial, annual or herb that can be clipped and maintained in a formal or informal shape. Hedges can provide privacy and define property lines as well as rooms of a garden.

Glossary : Low MaintenanceLow maintenance does not mean no maintenance. It does mean that once a plant is established, very little needs to be done in the way of water, fertilizing, pruning, or treatment in order for the plant to remain healthy and attractive. A well-designed garden, which takes your lifestyle into consideration, can greatly reduce maintenance.

Glossary : SpecimenA specimen can be a tree, shrub, ground cover, annual, or perennial that is unique in comparison to the surrounding plants. Uniqueness may be in color, form, texture, or size. By using only one specimen plant in a visual area, it can be showcased. Specimen plants are accents in the landscape, just as statues, water features, or arbors.

Glossary : EvergreenEvergreen refers to plants that hold onto their leaves or needles for more than one growing season, shedding them over time. Some plants such as live oaks are evergreen, but commonly shed the majority of their older leaves around the end of January.

Glossary : TolerantTolerant refers to a plant's ability to tolerate exposure to an external condition(s). It does not mean that the plant thrives or prefers this situation, but is able to adapt and continue its life cycle.

Turn Your Dirt into Soil: Start an Organic Garden Today! 

Organic soil ready for plant

                                               

Spring means it’s time to get outside and get dirty — filthy, actually! Whether you live in the city, the burbs, or country style, gardening is a uniquely intimate way of experiencing your surroundings and the changing of the seasons. As any farmer will tell you, growing enough food to feed a family, never mind a town or a city, is a life’s work — but gardening doesn’t have to be. These four S’s are all you need:

Space: It doesn’t have to be much. Container gardening, exactly what it sounds like — growing plants in pots or other containers — enables city dwellers and other landless folks a wonderful opportunity to garden. In urban areas, community gardens are gaining in popularity, building local food sheds and a sense of fellowship. And for land lovers with space to grow, simply look for a mostly level area that gets around 5 hours of sunshine a day.

Soil: In organic farming and gardening, it’s all about the soil. The philosophy is that soil rich in organic matter will grow healthier, more disease resistant, and tastier veggies. If you’re planting in pots, you simply need a stack of bagged organic soil and compost. If you’ve got dirt, you need to transform it into soil:

• Step one: Get it tested. Your local extension office will test your dirt for nutrients, pH, and potentially toxic materials, such as lead. The test results will also offer suggestions for how to remedy any potential problems. If the dirt has heavy metals, you may want to consider using containers, building raised beds, or experimenting with lasagna (no dig) gardening — building up soil by layering dirt, paper, compost, and other organic matter.
• Step two: Build it up. If you already have a compost pile, spread your garden with as much as you have to spare 2-4 weeks before you want to plant. Make sure to turn the compost into your existing garden soil — aerating the soil and spreading the nutrients evenly through your garden. You can also apply nutrients to your plants throughout the season by applying compost tea (made by steeping compost in water and then straining the solids) directly to the leaves. The advantage to compost tea that you can apply above ground is that it works quickly, whereas building up the soil is a gradual process.
  
  No compost? Start a pile today. Not only will your garden thank you in bigger, healthier plants and fruit but your trash barrel will be much lighter at the end of every week. Using a commercial compost bin or simply a 3x3 foot pile, alternate layers of soil with organic matter (food scraps, leaves, sawdust) and manure. Turn and water your pile weekly. In an apartment, vermiculture  (composting with worms) is one way to get your share of black gold in a small space. Once you’ve married dirt and compost, you’ve got soil and are ready to plant.
  
  Remember, in organic gardening (and farming), synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers are not allowed. If you’ve got pest problems in your garden, you have a couple of choices. Some bugs can be removed by hand; pick them off each plant as you go. Entrepreneurial gardeners might consider offering the job to kids in the family who want to help out. A dime a specimen could go a long way! If you have mold, fungus, or particularly tenacious insects, you might need to intervene — in which case it’s best to consult experts for advice.
• Seeds: If you’re a first-timer or want to stack the decks fully in your favor, consider buying organic seedlings from a plant sale or nursery. If you want to start the plants yourself, cold weather crops (spinach, radishes, lettuce) can go straight into your garden beds. For more sensitive plants that can’t handle the unpredictable temperatures of spring, start your seeds inside and transfer them to the garden when they are several inches tall.
  Stuff: You might be daunted by what kind of gear it takes to make a garden grow, but you needn’t be: a shovel or spade, garden fork, trowel, hose/watering can, and a sun hat are enough to get a solid start.
  
  So there you have it — a recipe for hard work and deep satisfaction. When you have your own organic garden, you can enjoy the absolutely wonderful feeling of eating the fruits of your labor and the satisfaction of knowing that they were grown with care. Most people would say this makes meals tastier. Growing your own food also gives you the opportunity to choose exactly what varieties of fruits and vegetables you eat and how they are prepared post-harvest: how big or small to harvest them, green tops on or off, flowers yes or no, etc. And if you happen upon a crop that you truly love, you can bring it back the following year by saving the seeds from the body of your fruits and vegetables — scrape them out, rinse them, and dry them on labeled paper towels. One thing is for sure: whether you have a year of endless bounty or one filled with challenges, planting your own organic garden is sure to make you appreciate the hard work of farmers everywhere

Preparing a Vegetable Plot !!!!!

Choosing the Site

Growing your own vegetables is becoming more popular. During World War II the country was told to 'dig for victory' so every patch of suitable ground was used to produce the crops to feed the nation. This reduced the quantities which up until then were imported and reduced the burden on the embattled shipping industry.
Not only is it a great and rewarding pastime, the crops are fresh, taste better and the vitamins and other benefits they contain, such as antioxidants, are more potent. Some of the crops come under the description of so-called Superfoods which contain higher proportions of these beneficial compounds.
Growing your own food makes you part of the increasing numbers of the Ooooby community - short for "out of our own back yard". This is the new term for people who raise some or all of their food themselves, joining the list of acronyms which some like to adopt. Another term used is Locavore which defines people who source their needs from home or local producers.

A perfect site

With the current concerns about climate change, any reduction in the journeys taken by our food will reduce the effect we have on the environment. It has been estimated that all of the ingredients which make up the average family Christmas, clock up about 48,000 miles (that's twice the circumference of the Earth). These 'food miles' all contribute to our carbon footprint, so as well as cutting down on the energy we use directly, growing some vegetables in the garden is another way of doing your bit to combat global warming. Even when buying organic produce the food miles are a consideration, many of them travel great distances before they reach the shops. Some are imported from the other side of the world, while the locally grown crops are cultivated with machinery then go to be packaged and to a central dispatch depot before they are distributed to the supermarket.
The cut flower market clocks up even greater mileage so if you like to have a display indoors, set aside a small area to grow some flowers for cutting. This could be an area being left fallow as part of a crop rotation cycle.

Long before official allotment sites were available for the landless to grow their own food, some people used what they regarded as common land. After the English Civil War in the seventeenth century there was a food shortage and a group known as the Diggers took it upon themselves to take over plots of land to grow fruit and vegetables, as they believed large landowners were misusing it. To-day there are 'new' Diggers who use areas of derelict land to grow crops.

Allotments have been around since the eighteenth century and are supported by Acts of Parliament that control the size and the rent which should be paid, eg. the rent for a 10rod plot was about £20 per year in the late 1990's. There is a renewed interest in allotments and it is more likely to be younger people from the 'professional classes' who are signing up for growing their own, rather than the traditional image of the flat-capped, retired labourer of old. Infact the majority of new allotment holders in Northern Ireland are women (approx. 60%) and most sites have waiting lists.
Even our politicians are getting in on the act. Much publicity has been sought to inform us that the Prime Minister, Gordon Brown, has a vegetable plot at No.10 with some the produce being sold in the staff canteen - typical Scot. Mind you it is maintained by gardeners from the Royal Parks, so you won't find Gordon creeping around with a torch at night collecting Slugs!
One council allotment officer estimates that it requires 16 to 20 hours per week to keep the average plot in good order during the peak growing season. He also suggested that to show some sense of competence, applicants should not arrive at his offices wearing stillettos if they want to have any chance of obtaining a plot! So if not familiar with some hard work or would not be able to commit that amount of time to a vegetable plot, it may not be the route to take - or consider sharing with a friend or two. Visit any allotment site and there are numerous plots which have been abandoned, much to the annoyance of the other tenants who have to suffer the weeds and pests they harbour.

Some large landowners are responding to the shortage of small growing plots and are making land available. Near to Gateshead in north-east England, the National Trust has cleared an old walled garden at a stately home for use as public allotments.

If growing vegetables at home with restricted space, you can try a few among the flowers. Clear a small patch or two and sow some lettuce, beetroot or spring onions - or try using large containers. A Potager can be a neat way to add vegetables to the ornamental garden. A series of beds are laid out in a formal pattern with stones or low hedges around their edges and the vegetables can be planted within these boundaries to some sort of design. Colorful varieties of many vegetables are available, eg. bright red or yellow chard and peas with purple pods.

Not all ground is suitable for growing food. It is important to consider any previous activity which may have left a residue of contaminants. If the area has been used for burning rubbish there could be some dioxins which are combustion products of plastics and electrical equipment, also unsafe levels of heavy metals from paints and some printed material.
Vegetables require an open position with full sunshine for much of the day, but with shelter from strong winds. Yields can be increased by about 30% in a sheltered spot. As a general rule a barrier will reduce the wind speed by about 50% for about eight times its height, so if a hedge is 2 metres high, crops at ground level up to 16 metres away should benefit significantly from it. The barrier should be porous, allowing about 50% of the wind to filter through, a solid structure diverts the flow, but can cause eddies which swirl around behind it.
The aspect of the site has a bearing on growth rates. The ideal aspect would be south-facing with a gentle slope which would warm up quicker and is sheltered from North winds. A slope is also less likely to be affected by spring frosts as cold air flows downhill. A barrier at the bottom of a slope could trap the cold air creating a frost pocket, a gap at the base allows it to pass through.

Most people try to grow their vegetables by organic methods or at least with the minimum of chemical interference - maybe the odd slug pellet or some artificial fertilizers. You may wish to be even more adventurous and follow the Biodynamic methods or create a Permaculture Garden which is in harmony with the environment.

Preparing the Site

When preparing a vegetable plot it can be very daunting - faced with a blank piece of ground usually infested with weed
On restricted sites, or a more relaxed attitude to growing, a system of polyculture can be followed where there is not a formal division of beds, but the position of a crop is determined by the maturing and harvesting of the previous one. This is what happens in the Permaculture growing method.

 

s. Some of these weeds are edible as well and can be harvested to supplement your more cultured crops. Often an allotment will have been neglected for a few years as the previous tenant may not have been able to tend it, but hung on to it in the hope that they might return. A good way to tackle the work is to divide it into four areas for rotating annual crops plus one for more permanent planting such as rhubarb, herbs and soft fruit. Crop rotation is important to reduce the build-up of pests and diseases, also crops use up the nutrients differently so they can be depleted if the same one is planted repeatedly in the same place.

Make a path through the centre, wide enough to accommodate a wheel barrow and edged with gravel boards or scaffolding planks. If the site is fairly level landscape fabric can be used to keep it from being muddy in wet weather, but on a sloping site it would be better to cover this with bark chips or gravel to stop it being slippery. Pea gravel will gravitate to the bottom of the slope. Broken quarry stone and dust known as 'blinding' binds well (sometimes called GAP 20 - General All Passing - ie. contains stones from 20mm to dust); if it is difficult to obtain, scattering sharp sand over gravel will bind it together. Then use more landscape fabric to make side paths running at right-angles to the main one, pinned down with wire hoops or plastic pegs. These can be moved to work with different planting configurations and to make cultivation easier.
The paths will also reduce the amount or trampling on the beds, so they may not need to be dug over again, apart from some light forking to turn in some manure. This forms the basis of the no-dig method of gardening where the organic matter is scattered over the surface and becomes incorporated during planting and by the worms.

One of the problems with developing a plot from weedy conditions or from pasture land is that there may be more pests such as Leatherjackets and Wireworms. These pests live on the roots of plants so when the weeds are removed they will turn on your crops. When cultivating the soil destroy any that are found, birds will help and Robins in particular tend to keep vigil as you work. Also there will be a reservoir of weed seeds which will take quite a few years to be depleted. Some can remain viable for over 20 years, but their numbers will be declining if they are not allowed to mature.
It is probably best to be planting in rows which run in a North-South direction, which gives maximum light and fewer shadows. Also if including a shed or greenhouse, these should be placed at the northern end to avoid shading any of the plot. If there are trees, large shrubs or a hedge nearby, their roots may extend into the plot. This will mean a loss of moisture and nutrients and the crops will suffer. Smaller roots which reach beyond the canopy can be severed to lessen the problem, but larger supporting roots cannot, so if possible choose another site. Once they have been removed a vertical barrier should prevent them from encroaching again.

The diagram above shows a suggested layout for the first year. This will entail the addition of well-rotted manure or garden compost in area 1, as the potatoes require plenty of moisture and nutrition (Courgettes and sweetcorn are also gross feeders, so can be grown in this area as well). If the whole plot is large this could be the only area tackled in the first year, with a little work done on the rest. Cover any undeveloped areas with landscape fabric or old carpet laid upside-down to block out light which will kill the existing weeds and prevent others from germinating. This makes it easier to cultivate later. In subsequent years the rest of the plot gets the double digging as the crops rotate, until after the fourth year you are back at area one again, but this time the organic matter can be spread on the surface and incorporated with a digging fork. On a smaller plot the whole lot can be dug over at once before dividing into the different crop areas, incorporating organic matter in the relevant areas.
Most people would prefer to grow food without resorting to chemicals, but by suspending the practice for a few weeks, the clearing of a new plot can be made much less of an effort by employing a total weed killer such as Glyphosate. It will kill all of the weeds and their roots, and it does not leave a residue so the ground can be used when clearing is complete. To ensure total removal leave the plot to see if any of the more stubborn ones are dead and reapply if they recover. This method will take longer than digging out the weeds, but is much easier on the back!

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Remove all of the weeds, skimming them off with the spade if they are dense. Then dig over the area with a fork removing the remaining weed roots and large stones. To add the manure remove a trench of soil to one spade's depth at one end and move it to just beyond the far end. Dig the manure into the bottom of this trench, being careful not to bring the subsoil into the top layer, then turn the next row of spits on top of this. Repeat this along the area incorporating more manure and covering it with the turned over soil until the end when the soil from the first trench is used to fill the last. This is a process known as double-digging or as the gardeners of old called it 'bastard trenching' - for obvious reasons. If the ground has been cultivated before or is easily worked the double-digging can be performed during the clearing operations.

This may seem a lot of work but the resulting bed will give years of excellent production. If you are not accustomed to this kind of work, then it should be tackled in small segments over a number of weeks when the weather is suitable. The rest of the plot can be treated the same way later on or the following year, depending on its size and the energy of the gardener.
The following year use area 2 for the potatoes with the addition of the manure. In the second year area 1 is used for the rest of the root vegetables such as carrots, parsnips, beetroot and turnips which do better in ground that has not been recently manured.
The potatoes move to areas 3 and 4 in subsequent years then start again in area 1. This time the area does not require double-digging as the manure can be dug into the bottom of the trench made to plant the 'seed' potatoes. Thus the four year cycle begins again and moves around in the same manner. The crops to be planted in the rotation are as follows. This is the ideal cropping arrangement, but preparation of the plot may mean it is not established for a few years.
A simpler rotation can be followed on a three year cycle by including the potatoes with the root crops or leaving them out entirely if space does not allow. The choice of crops is for the individual, but the ones listed are fairly common.

	area 1	area 2	area 3	area 4
year 1	potatoes	lettuce, onions, spring onions, celery, (leeks)*	peas and beans, (leeks)*	carrots, parsnips, turnips, swede, raddish, beetroot
year 2	carrots, parsnips, turnips, swede, raddish, beetroot	potatoes	lettuce, onions, spring onions, celery, (leeks)*	peas and beans, (leeks)*
year 3	peas and beans, (leeks)*	carrots, parsnips, turnips, swede, raddish, beetroot	potatoes	lettuce, onions, spring onions, celery, (leeks)*
year 4	lettuce, onions, spring onions, celery, (leeks)*	peas and beans, (leeks)*	carrots, parsnips, turnips, swede, raddish, beetroot	potatoes

*The leeks are raised in one area and transplanted later when the early peas and beans have finished.

The permanent planting areas can be placed at the northern end to reduce shading of the plot. The choice of crops depends on taste and size of the area available but are the ones which remain for a number of years, eg. strawberries for about 3 and asparagus for up to 20 years. Preparation is the same as the rest of the plot. In subsequent years the area should be mulched with the manure to keep down weeds and the worms will work it into the soil. The non-cultivation or no-dig method of crop growing uses this technique over the whole plot. The soil is not dug, instead a thick mulch of compost or rotted manure covers the soil and the crops are planted through it. The initial preparation to clear the site is the same, as no amount of mulching will stop perennial weeds such as Couchgrass.

If there are periods when an area is not in production, eg.after harvesting a crop, it should be covered with a thick mulch of compost or with landscape fabric to prevent weeds from germinating - do not use plastic sheetng as it does not allow air in and the soil becomes stagnant. The compost will be taken into the soil by worms, so saving the need to dig it in the following spring. Another use for fallow areas is to grow a green manure. This is an annual crop such as mustard (spring or summer sowing) or alfalfa (late summer or autumn sowing). It will prevent soil erosion, smother weeds and improve the soil structure. Before the plants mature and still have plenty of sap, they are cut, left to wilt and turned into the soil at least two to three weeks before re-planting - roots and all, so that they are completely buried and will break down, returning nutrients to the soil. The soil structure is maintained better when it is being used, a plot left barren with nothing growing (even weeds) will become compacted and stagnant, growing roots keep it open.
Other green manures which can be grown in the winter are Corn Salad, Claytonia (Lamb's Lettuce) or Field Beans which do not have deep roots and are easily incorporated. Keep within the crop rotation principles by using varieties close to the harvested crop, eg. Field Beans after the peas/beans or Mustard after brassicas. Phacelia (Phacelia tanacetifoliais) is not related to any vegetable so can be used after any crop. Some of the seed which is sold for the purpose is used by commercial growers who use heavy machinery to incorporate the deeper roots and are not so suitable for use in the garden.

If the soil is not of a chalky nature it will tend to become acid as the Calcium is leached out. Also the addition of compost and manure tends to lower the pH. It may require the addition of lime from time to time as most vegetables grow best when the soil pH is between 5.5 and 7. Outside this range some of the nutrients can be unavailable to plants. It is preferable to do a pH test using soil from several areas of the plot to work out the amount of lime to add to achieve this optimum level.

pH of soil	Sandy Soil g/sq m	Loamy Soil g/sq m	Clay Soil g/sq m
4.5	190	285	400
5.0	155	235	330
5.5	130	190	260
6.0	118	155	215

The table above gives the amount of lime in grams, to be added per square metre
of different soil types to achieve a pH of about 6.5.

Use ordinary lime (Calcium Carbonate) as it is less caustic than quicklime (Calcium Oxide). Choose a calm day marking out the area in one metre strips and sprinkle the lime evenly before digging it in. This is best done well before planting to avoid scorching of roots and should it not be applied at the same time as fertilizer or manure to avoid the loss of Nitrogen - a chemical reaction causes Ammonia to form which is gaseous and escapes to the atmosphere. Late autumn or winter is traditionally the time when liming is carried out

Organic agriculture and the environment!!!!

 

Organic agriculture and the environment!!!!

Organic agriculture is considered to be a holistic food production system that sustains the health of soils, ecosystems and people. This system is a set of natural ecological processes, biodiversity and cycles adapted to local conditions, which discourages the use of inputs that adversely affect the environment. Further, this method avoids the use of hybrid seeds, synthetic pesticides, fertilizers and genetically modified organism to influence the growth of crops. The main objective of organic farming is to protect the earth’s resources and produce safe, healthy food with almost zero residual impact on the soil and environment. 

The main source of organic matter is top and roots of the plants, especially Jan tar, Bar seem and Guevara (leguminous crops), while animal and poultry wastes are deemed to be a second source. Its (organic matter) chemical composition shows that it consists of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and content of water. The microorganisms present in the soil decompose the matter that not only increase the water, but also the air and water flow rates through fine textured present in sandy soils. The organic matter also act as a mulch thus reducing erosion, shades of the soil and keep it cool in summer and warm in winter. 

The other way is conventional farming system characterized by mechanization, monocultures and the use of synthetic inputs, such as hybrid seeds, fertilizers and pesticides, with an emphasis on maximizing productivity and profitability. Scientists believe that It degrades the soil structure, texture and topography. Therefore, besides maintaining the soil quality, the organic system sustains biodiversity. 

According to the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movement (IFOAM), organic cultivation is developing rapidly. The statistical data obtained from 141 countries indicate that the share of organically operated agricultural land continues to grow in many countries. Reportedly, “32.2 million hectares of agricultural land are managed organically by more than 1.2 million producers, including smallholders. In addition to the agricultural land, there are 0.4 million hectares of certified organic aquaculture.” The regions with the largest areas of organically managed agricultural land are Oceania, Europe, and Latin America. 

Pakistan is quite different as the farming community here is mainly concerned with productivity, instead of quality which usually motivates the producers to adopt farming methods that help to boost their production/profits. The Green Revolution in Pakistan during the 1960s brought substantial changes in the farming system. But with the passage of time, it proved ineffective and deteriorated the soil fertility due to the excessive use of chemical fertilizers. Its impacts on human and animal health were also disastrous. The improper use of pesticides started to pollute land, air and underground water resources, while pests gradually develop resistance to chemical pesticides. 

Agriculturists and researchers believe that organic farming has long lasting and positive effects not only on soil texture, but also on human and animal health. Various studies conducted by agricultural economists to compare organic and conventional farming in Pakistan reveal that initially the yield obtained through organic method is less than conventional method. But over the passage of time it will either become equal or surpass the quantity obtained through conventional method. The organic products would also fetch higher prices than the conventionally produced products, if they would reach in specialized organic markets. Although the supply of animal/poultry manure in Pakistan is very low as compared to the demand. However, proper management of the farming system can overcome the shortage specifically by growing leguminous crops. 

Regrettably, in Pakistan no specialized organic market exists where organic products can be sold at reasonable prices. That is why local organic produce cannot be sold at better prices. It is high time that the government, in collaboration with local NGOs, make an effort to promote organic agriculture to save the environment. More so, there is need to develop markets for local organic products in the cities to encourage cultivators by selling their produce at higher rates, besides motivating consumers to purchase residual free fruit and vegetables at cheap rates.